All I was hoping for was thick fog and bit of drizzle, but we got neither.
The navigator was of no use as we drove on the small country lanes in Northern Ireland’s County Antrim looking for the signs for the golf course. I was keeping an eye on the printed A4 we had got from the tourist information, photocopied many times over, and at the same time doing the math of how many kilometres we had progressed on this given stretch of a road.
“It must be there!” was my remark as in the distance I saw the tall tree tops stretching high above anything in the near surroundings. And still, we almost missed the turn to this small lane, visited by many, but still delightfully non-touristy in the way we were left feeling as we had discovered this special place.
I never thought I would be chasing after a piece of road. Very small road in fact, which I initially failed to even pinpoint on the map. And that I would then return again next morning. And again that evening. And again the following morning. And that I would plan to go back on my next visit.
The first time I saw the dark hedges was on Instagram, not surprisingly, as that’s where I am in the dark hours of the night when the little man is hungry and I try to keep my eyes open. While we cuddle on the bed, my mind is usually miles away, already checking out locations in New Zealand, traveling all over Ireland, exploring my now home country of Norway or my native Finland, and where ever else the pictures take me.
Giant’s Causeway was the reason we were up in Northern Ireland, and everything else was pretty much thanks to Elaine on Instagram, who pointed us to different attractions and scenic locations up north. Like the Dark Hedges.
Planted in the 1750’s, these ancient beech trees that were there to impress visitors to the Stuart family estate, have since interlocked forming a unique, almost eerie archway. The Dark Hedges are probably at their most ghostly and atmospheric on early mornings or late evenings in misty, foggy conditions, but we got neither. We did try to catch those special conditions every morning and every evening of our stay, but all we got was the kind of soft light without sun. I have to go back.
How to get to the Dark Hedges
The best point of information is the Ballymoney tourist information, you can find their entry on Dark hedges here.
For those too busy to click, below is a short version of driving directions from the Ballymoney tourist information (Ballymoney – approx. 80 km / 50 miles north from Belfast. Don’t confuse with Ballymena….).
- Drive to top of Townhead Street, at junction, turn right. After, turn left at the roundabout.
- Drive straight on at the next roundabout, straight to end of road (petrol station on your left).
- Turn right at the next roundabout onto A26, Frosses Road, southbound towards Ballymena /Belfast.
- Take 3rd exit on left – B147 Kirk Road (Signposted Stranocum/Gracehill Golf Club/Ballintoy).
- Keep on B147 (through village of Stranocum) for approx 11km / 7 to 8 Miles.
- Bregagh Road is on right before reaching Gracehill Golf Club.
Where to stay at the Dark Hedges
As we were traveling in the non-peak season in October, we had no reservations made for accommodation. We got some suggestions from the Ballymoney tourist information and decided on the Knockavallen Lodge, a lovely self-catering accommodation close to the Hedges for easy access every morning and night. You can check them out on Trip Advisor or contact directly:
Tel. +44 28 2074 1230 / +44 7761 356 5566
At the time of writing this their own website isn’t working, but you can see if it’s up at www.knockavallenlodge.co.uk